So a few months have gone by and I've just been busy with applying for school, working and just a few projects here and there. Still doing iPhone repairs, sold the classic mini project, but picked up something else. (pics below). Hopefully I can post some of the more recent repairs I've done, not iPhone related, but still in the realms of micro-soldering. Stay tuned!
I have a small batch that I made. These will ONLY include the brackets and the hardware. No silicone. If you want silicone, email me and I can include it for an extra fee (I have a few tubes left). These will be ready for shipment more than likely 2-18-12.
Price reduction due to the elimination of the silicone.
Info for these brackets can be read here: http://hectordtruong.blogspot.com/2011/02/okay-time-for-some-car-stuff.html
Email me any questions or start a NASIOC thread and point me to it if you want me to answer anything specific. The current one was locked since I am not a vendor, so keep it purely informational. No discussion about costs, etc. Thanks!
This was a strange repair, pretty rare but a repair nonetheless. Customer complained of bad reception after a screen repair, and they kind of mushed their antenna connector. For those of you that do iPhone repairs, this is similar to the #6, and #7 connector on the 3G and/or 3GS. Fairly straight forward repair. Customer was happy in the end to say the least :)
So it's been awhile since I've posted anything. Very busy for the last few weeks/months. I have also received quite a bit of emails from people regarding the infamous #3 connector and had to turn people away. NOT because I can't do it, but because someone else, or some other "shop" has tried and then went and totally fucked shit up. I say this in the most professional way I can, because some of these boards are FUBAR'd. Anyhow, I would like to tell anyone that is reading this, PLEASE DON'T LET ANYONE experiment with your phone!!!
I have done probably thousands of these repairs now, and I pretty much started this movement! Haha. Google me (hectordtruong or krazy) and you will see a lot of activity regarding this connector, and myself. I will post an example of a failed repair attempt... from a full blown "repair shop."
Typical "repair shop" quality.
So please, if you don't wan't your phone to look like this, don't send it to anyone else.
Contact me to save your phone from looking like that! Hectordtruong@gmail.com
So you went to change your battery in your iPhone 4, or you opened it up to change out the housing, and you made a big mistake and used to much force. The connector comes up with the battery, you rip out one or two of the solder pads, then you realized that you need to put this down and give it to a professional.
Here are the repair pics, during and done.
The solder pad was repaired, and trace recovered. Even if completely torn out, I believe this can be fixed as the circuitry is nearby and not very difficult to do if you know what you're doing. I have ordered a few of these connectors, and will be offering this service very soon. Questions, please email me! Thanks!
The company I work for is in Ophthalmology, and we deal greatly with diseases relating to blindness. I am trying to raise money for the Orange County VisionWalk, and would greatly appreciate it if you could contribute anything. Whether it be $5 or $500, all donations will be greatly appreciated and will go towards continual efforts at finding a cure for blindness. You can make donations directly on the site:
So do you have no service issues, or even wifi issues? Although this may not be the root cause, sometimes it can actually help to have a proper, secure connection to these antenna grounding points. The dreaded #6 and #7 (3GS) connections are radio antenna points. Many of times people put their phones back together and they rush things, don't have proper lighting, have poor eyesight, or even just being careless, they can damage this little, fragile connector.
Before panic and throw your phone out the window, read on. THIS CAN BE FIXED! I found someone selling the connectors and I bought a few. I have done a few of these repairs, and they are pretty straight forward with the right equipment and expertise. Below are the pictures of the surgery!
Old connector removed
At the top of the post, you see the original connector in pretty bad shape. No longer did it accept the ribbon side, it can also damage a new ribbon as well. Be careful trying to force anything, these things shouldn't be forced. Onto the next step!
This is something I have been working on for awhile. I have a 2004 Subaru WRX Impreza STi, it is my daily driver, and dependable ride. I frequent the mountains, like to ride bikes here and there, and like to just use my car to its fully capability. So this brings me to the purpose of this post.
I like to run a roof rack on my car. Personal preference is function over form, but after awhile things start to look hokey and just not refined. Originally, I had the EDM Subaru rack for my car, which was specifically made for the European Subaru Imprezas.
A little known fact about Imprezas (2001-2007), is that they are all made with hidden brackets that allow for the provisions of the EDM roof rack. The EDM rack was tall, ugly, and noisy, although it fit perfectly without damaging my roof, I hated it. I then went to a different route, by modifying a Yakima rack that uses Q-clips, so that the clips attach to the existing "hidden" brackets, and not the window sill edge of the car. Here you see the typical set up and mine, modified.
So this brings us to my idea, which was to be able to use the newer style Yakima Landing Pad and Control Towers with the older type Imprezas. These are the same type of racks used on the 2008+ Subarus, as well as BMW and Mercedes. The newer cars have a threaded hole in the roof frame which allow for the Yakima Landing Pads to attach to. My idea then came to fruition by way of a DIY I helped collaborate. The original was intended for a Thule set up, but I did all the research I needed for a Yakima set up. Here is the DIY post topic for that on my local forum:
After realizing the pitfalls of drilling and tapping a fairly thin piece of mild steel, I went ahead and used Solidworks to CAD up a simple bracket. The bracket basically replaced the stock bracket and allows for a secure and strong alternative to other options. Which leads me to this, stock bracket on the car, and the CAD model bracket:
I decided to enlist in some people I know to manufacture them for me on a limited run to see how they will do. They are strictly vehicle specific, but if you're me, and you love your Subaru, these are perfect for a strong alternative to typical roof rack set ups. SOOOOO... here are the prototypes! They are in raw form. The final ones should be made from 7075 Aluminum for strength, and probably anodized black or clear. They will include hardware, silicone, and you just reuse the nuts on your brackets. To get to them, you have to pull down portions of the headliner but it shouldn't be too difficult. These are specifically made for Yakima Landing Pads, using M8 bolts they provide in the kit. Thule kits have a different set up that isn't as robust, and don't look as streamlined. Final production versions will probably have only 1-2 threaded holes for to be able to vary the distance between towers, this minimizes cost of tapping an additional hole as well. Here are the pics of the brackets alongside the OEM flimsy one.
Please contact me via email if you're definitely interested. I cannot technically sell these on my forum since I am not a vendor, but we can work something out. My email is posted all over the place in this blog. Once I test fit these on my car, I will give the word to get them made, and it will be done in no time. I am thinking end of February. The car is currently in the shop, so I cannot test-fit them. These are going to probably cost around the same as 2 sets of Yakima Q-clips, so they are definitely affordable. Thanks for reading!
If you're having issues with your proximity sensor and the connector is fine, and the ribbon was once working in your other screen. This could be the reason why. Took me awhile to figure out why the ribbons I was installing into customers' phones were not responding the the proximity sensor properly. There is a huge batch of bad digitizers out there. Mainly 3G I believe, but you can't be too sure. Here is a pic of the bad one versus a good one. Notice the right side sensor holes are lighter in tint, it should be like this, not like the darker one on the left. I'll update more when I get some time. Lots to show you guys, and lots to learn! And yes, that is an ice-cream cone reflection haha, it is a sticker on my camera. Hectordtruong@gmail.com
Okay so this is another common issue people have been dealing with. It just so happens that the LCD backlight on a huge number of 3GS phones have gone dark and never come back. I happened to have the change to replace this on a customer's phone and it worked like gangbusters (like that word? haha). One thing I have to note though, this may not work for all instances since the backlight and the LCD of the phone is controlled by a number of things. However it is worth a shot! Pics of the surgery and stuff! I should have taken more pics, but I was too excited about the repair lol. Lame, I know.
New Coil In Package!
Busted Coil Removed!
New Coil In!
So before I get a million emails in regards to this repair, please know that this may or may not be a definite fix for you. I can do the repair for you, however you must understand that if it comes out to be something else other than the coil, it is out of my hands. I am continually learning about the inner workings of the Apple engineering so bear with me :)
I do not know if this applies to the 3G as well, but if you wanna be a guinea pig, email me, and if you're wondering about the "jumper" trick, I've tried it and it didn't seem to work, more then once by the way, solder points were PERFECT as well. So I don't know.
EDIT: This could also render the phone dead, as I had one that didn't respond well the the repair at all. Very weird, it was one of mine, but it is under warranty :)
So here is another example of my work. The digitizer connector replacement on a 3GS. A very difficult repair. A huge number of pins to solder without bridging any connections. No braid or solder wick used!
Arrived in this condition (upside-down pic):
This one is one of the more tricky types of repair due to it's location, however with a little patience I was able to carefully remove the old connector and put the new one on. Any questions please email me at Hectordtruong@gmail.com